3D printing helps tradition live on at Harris Tweed
Minimizing downtimes for looms with 3D printed spare parts
For centuries, weavers in Scotland have honed the craft of making beautiful and resilient tweed textiles. Today, this tradition lives on in part thanks to textile brand Harris Tweed, which has played an integral role in bringing the famed woollen fabric to people around the world and which is now turning to cutting-edge technologies to help the weaving tradition thrive. In more specific terms, Harris Tweed weavers are extending the lifespan of traditional weaving looms using 3D printed components.
When we talk about Harris Tweed, it is not quite the same as talking about other clothing brands and companies. In fact, Harris Tweed is not even technically a company: it refers to a type of textile that can only claim the Harris Tweed name if it has been handwoven in the homes of residents of the Outer Hebrides in Scotland. The textile itself is made from pure virgin wool and is protected through the Harris Tweed Act, passed in UK parliament over three decades ago.
The protected status of this textile production process means that weavers must preserve the essential elements of the centuries-old craft, using complex but traditional machines to spin and weave the wool. In the past, if part of a loom had broken, it meant that weavers had to borrow components from other weavers, make a DIY solution, or risk waiting half a year to source the rare bits.
In a bid to make Harris Tweed more future-proof and to enable the weavers to keep the their production running, Harris Tweed Loom Spares Co. is collaborating with the National Manufacturing Institute Scotland (NMIS) to use 3D printing for faster, on-demand spare loom parts. The NMIS, run by the University of Strathclyde as part of the High Value Manufacturing (HVM) Catapult, has the overarching mission to develop Scotland’s workforce and facilitate the adoption of new technologies by local manufacturers.
A team of engineers at NMIS’ Digital Factory is currently investigating the best materials for 3D printing loom parts that are durable and perform well. It is also interested in streamlining the design of certain assemblies, taking advantage of the ability to consolidate parts enabled by 3D printing. For example, the team has consolidated a series of seven interconnected loom components into just three 3D printed parts. These parts, made from a composite thermoplastic, reportedly cost just 1% of the original components’ cost and can be made within just two hours.
This on-the-fly production capability could be a game-changer for the Harris Tweed weavers, who have been accustomed to waiting for weeks for spare parts and were thus highly creative when it came to quick fixes. John Bennie, a local weaver, even integrated an automotive flywheel into his loom to keep it up-and-running. “When a vital part of the loom breaks, it can halt production for weeks, which is incredibly frustrating,” he said. “Finding a way to keep the loom running smoothly is essential, and it’s been great to be one of the first to try out the new 3D printed assembly. The ability to get what we need, when we need it, will make a huge difference, as it means we can minimise downtime and focus on our work without unnecessary interruptions.”
The partnership between Harris Tweed Loom Spares Co. and NMIS has already completed its first phase and going forward the plan is to continue to design, print, test and refine new replacement parts. The task is somewhat complicated since many looms have been tweaked and modified by individual weavers over the years, however it’s no challenge that 3D printing can’t manage. According to the NMIS, their goal now is to create a series of adaptable loom parts that can easily be fitted to specific looms.
“We take pride in our craftsmanship and tradition, but we also know that innovation is vital for keeping our industry strong for the generations to come. Working with NMIS is a significant step forward in future-proofing the looms critical to the production of Harris Tweed,” added Kelly McDonald, operations manager at The Harris Tweed Authority. “With the ability to replace parts quickly, easily and affordably, our weavers can focus on what they do best without worrying about delays. This not only safeguards the future of our fabric but also supports the livelihoods of the island community who dedicate their skills to preserving the craft.”
3D printing is coming to occupy an increasingly vital role in various traditional crafts—not by replacing skills but by supporting them. For instance, at Italy’s Fondazione ITS “Cantieri dell’Arte”, a school specialized in architectural restoration, a construction 3D printer has been installed which will be used to teach students how the innovative technology can be used in combination with traditional restoration practices to preserve historic buildings. Elsewhere, 3D printing is being used to produce obsolete replacement parts that are keeping vintage vehicles up and running. In Scotland, the technology is now playing a role in keeping the tradition of Harris Tweed alive and thriving.
“This project really showcases how modern manufacturing can boost traditional industries and help preserve valuable heritage skills,” concluded Andrew Bjonnes, research & development engineer at the NMIS Digital Factory. “With additive manufacturing, we’re promoting self-sufficiency and giving weavers a smart, cost-effective and user-friendly way to keep their looms up and running. It has been an incredibly rewarding project, making a tangible difference and allowing weavers to concentrate on their craft instead of worrying about equipment failures.”
